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The Long Riders' Guild
Historical Long Riders
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Though few today remember either their journeys or their books, Cora and
Jan Gordon were top notch English travel writers of the Jazz Age whose
exploits took them to a variety of exotic locales. The couple's adventures
began when they worked with the Red Cross during the First World War. Having
narrowly escaped being slaughtered in that conflict, after the war ended
they lived in Paris where they witnessed the Bohemian events of the 1920s.
A remarkable couple, the Gordons wrote twenty-six books on their travels
through England, Ireland, France, Spain, Albania, Serbia, Montenegro,
Sweden, Portugal and the USA. In 1925 they explored Albania on horseback, a
journey which resulted in the publication of their book, “Two Vagabonds in
Albania.” It was during this journey that the Gordons, armed with nothing
more than their sense of humour, Jan's guitar and Cora's lute, met “gentle
assassins” and a host of other memorable figures on their ride through
Albania. |
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Graham
Greene was a
prolific English novelist whose works explore the ambivalent moral and
political issues of the modern world.
Throughout his
life, Greene was obsessed with travelling far from his native England, to
what he called the "wild and remote" places of the world. A 1938 trip to
Mexico resulted in the factual The Lawless Roads . During the course
of that trip, Greene made an equestrian journey into the jungles in search
of the ancient city of Palenque. Click here to read an excerpt from
The Lawless Roads entitled - The Long Ride! |
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Even in the pantheon of
equestrian stars known as The Long Riders’ Guild, there is no one quite like
Marguerite Harrison. Born to a wealthy American family, Harrison opted to
leave a life of comfort in order to work as a reporter covering the trench
warfare of the First World War. When that conflict concluded Harrison
journeyed into the newly formed Soviet Union, where she carried on spying
missions for the American government. During this time she met and fed the
imprisoned American aviator, Merian C. Cooper, who was being starved to
death in a Soviet prison. After Cooper escaped, Harrison was herself
arrested and ordered to be executed. Through great good luck she managed to
escape the firing squad. Yet instead of returning to the safety of America,
the intrepid Harrison offered to bankroll Cooper’s idea of making a feature
length film. Joining Cooper, and his camera man Ernest Schoedsack, the ever
elegant Marguerite Harrison joined a band of Bakhtiari nomads. The film crew
travelled with the Persians from the Persian Gulf to the nomads’ mountain
pastures. Upon the completion of this grueling journey, and having
eventually returned to the United States, Marguerite became one of the four
founding members of the Society of Woman Geographers. |
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Everyone harbors a dream. Perhaps it is to
leave the bills behind, see what is over the next hill, or even seek for
adventure. Frank Heath, the author of
Forty Million Hoof Beats did all
that and more. A former cavalryman during the First World War, Heath not
only knew about horses, but more importantly he understood the rigors
involved in undertaking a great equestrian journey. That is why he took a
deep breath before announcing to the world that he was going to ride to all
48 states within the continental United States. Most people would spend vast
amounts of time and money to acquire a horse for such a stupendous
undertaking. Heath did neither. He traded a horse he had on hand for a
ten-year-old mare named Gypsy Queen. According to the horse trader, the mare
Heath acquired was a Kentucky Morgan. Yet fancy pedigree aside, the little
bay mare could cover ground like a fast moving windstorm. Mounted on Gypsy
Queen, Heath set out in 1925 to see his vast country. The journey lasted
more than two years, during which time the two travelers shared a long
series of hardships, becoming inseparable companions in the process. In
1927, more than 11,000 miles later, Frank and his Gypsy Queen mare finally
rode into Washington DC. The unlikely horse and her cavalryman rider had
touched every state in the Union. One man’s dream had been achieved.
Photograph courtesy of George Hilliard. |
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It was the kind of
country that sheltered nomads and harbored renegades. It was wild. It free.
It was Mongolia in the early 1920s, that legendary magnet for foot-loose
sons of the horizon like Henning Haslund. Descended from a
19th Century Danish explorer, when young Haslund reached Mongolia in 1923 he
discovered a lost equestrian world left largely untouched since the Middle
Ages. Cruel Buriat warlords ruled a vast grass covered kingdom inhabited by
freedom-loving Mongols, tight-lipped Russian mercenaries and the human
riff-raff of a dozen countries. It was a world where traditions of poetry
and hospitality ran side by side with extreme cruelty. Into this realm of
horsemen rode Haslund Henning. He originally planned to journey to Mongolia
to help other Danes set up an agricultural cooperative. Yet the dust of the
steppes got into his blood. There was always some reason not to return to
the boring safety of Europe, some horse to ride, some legend to explore.
Mongolian Adventure is
Haslund’s story of these early adventures. It is an epic tale inhabited by a
cast of characters no longer present in this lackluster world, shamans who
set themselves on fire, rebel leaders who sacked towns, and wild horsemen
whose ancestors conquered the world. |

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Educated at Oxford where he won fame as a fencer,
Sir Ahmed Mohammed Hassanein, an Egyptian of Bedouin
descent, returned home and initially served as a diplomat for King Faud. But
Hassanein’s love of adventure came to the fore and for a time overrode his
diplomatic career.
Despite their dangerous appeal, there are a few
desolate places in the world that call to a man, daring him to return to
their deadly beauty again and again. The world’s last unexplored desert held
such an allure for the remarkable author of this book. At the dawning of the
20th century the vast desert of Libya remained one of last
unexplored places on Earth. Because travel was restricted by the distance
camels could trek between wells, vast portions of the Libyan interior were
still blank spots on the map. Enter Sir Ahmed
Hassanein, the dashing Egyptian
diplomat turned explorer.
Having befriended the Muslim leaders of the elusive
Senussi Brotherhood who controlled the deserts further on,
Hassanein
became aware
of rumours of a “lost oasis” which lay even deeper in the desert.
In 1923 the explorer mounted his horse and led a
small camel caravan on a remarkable seven month journey across the centre of
Libya. More than two thousand gruelling miles later
Hassanein
emerged with
marvellous tales of having not only located the “lost” oasis of Uweinat, but
having also discovered a cave which contained ten-thousand-year-old
drawings. Attributed to djinns, these Paleolithic images depicted a
flourishing, but now extinct, pastoral world inhabited by giraffes,
ostriches, gazelles, even cows, but no camels. Yet the most startling image
depicted human beings swimming in what had become a forbidding desert.
Upon his return,
Hassanein
was hailed as a hero of
exploration and awarded the Founders Medal by the Royal Geographical
Society, while the mysterious “Cave of the Swimmers”
Hassanein
discovered became a
legend which featured in the film, The English
Patient.
His book, The Lost Oasis
is a timeless account of his hazardous journey across the great sand sea. |
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Many men are born. Some
are remembered. Few become legends.
Such was the fate of the
English Long Rider Aubrey Herbert, whose amazing true-life adventures
served as the inspiration for one of the most dashing heroes in British
literature.
Aubrey Herbert
was a renowned traveller who set out at the beginning of the 20th
century to explore Anatolia,
Arabia, Mesopotamia, the
Middle East and the Balkans. Burdened at birth with poor eyesight, this son
of wealthy English aristocrats compensated by becoming a
linguist who
spoke French, Italian, German, Turkish, Arabic, Greek and Albanian. The
latter language, though seldom heard outside its mountainous native land,
was to play an influential part in Herbert’s later life.
During the course of his
many wanderings, hair-raising quests and narrow escapes from death, Herbert
was accompanied by Riza Bey, a notorious Albanian tribal prince, who had
thrown his lot in with the wandering Englishman for the lordly sum of ten
English pounds a year.
In 1905 Herbert and Riza
explored Yemen on horseback, at which time Herbert wrote, “The desert is a
cruel place, where strangers rarely thrive.”
The following year they
rode from Baghdad, across the Syrian Desert, to Damascus, where the famished
Herbert and his Albanian comrade cantered up to the best hotel in the city.
“For three weeks we had
been tanned by the sun and stung by the wind, sand and rain. Our clothes
were fastened with string. With his gun slung over his shoulder Riza marched
before me into the ordered quietness of the dining room. I followed, as well
armed as he. There I sat down, and penniless and unknown, ordered a royal
luncheon. Silence fell upon the room. Luckily for me our English Consul was
there. He backed my name upon a piece of paper for all the money I wanted
and for three days I revelled in luxury and baths.”
The remarkable duo next
rode across Albania in 1907, a country which Herbert described as being so
isolated from the rest of Europe that the chivalry of the Middle Ages still
existed there.
In his autobiography, “Ben
Kendim,” Herbert recalled an episode from his Albanian adventure which makes
for interesting Long Rider reading today.
While riding with his
horses and servants through a vile and dangerous portion of the mountains, a
soldier stopped the author and demanded his yol teskere (road permit), which
was packed away.
Soldier: "O Effendi, O my
two eyes, give up thy teskere. The merciful government requires this. Praise
be to God !"
Herbert: "God prosper the
merciful Government ! This law is not for me, nor will I unpack my luggage."
Soldier: "O educated sir, O
corner of my liver, stay. Thou shalt not pass."
Herbert: "O dog, eat dirt,
but behold that we part in friendship."
Soldier: "I am grateful to
you, O Bey. Depart in peace."
"So," writes Herbert, "in
those days were the obstacles of travel surmounted."
When the First
World War broke out, Herbert was declared unfit for military service because
of his poor eyesight. Not to be put off by a few rules, the intrepid Long
Rider was able to launch his military career by the simple expedient of
purchasing an officer’s uniform and boarding a troopship bound for France.
Upon being discovered, the noted linguist was transferred to Cairo, where he
joined the British Intelligence Bureau and worked with T. E. Lawrence.
It was thanks
to his amazing ability to blend into foreign cultures, and transform himself
linguistically to fit his surrounding environment, that Herbert gained a
reputation as being a cultural chameleon who was able to disappear into
enemy territory. That reputation inspired the English novelist, John Buchan,
to use Herbert as the inspiration for the fictional hero, Sandy Arbuthnot.
In Buchan’s most famous novel, Greenmantle, a Herbert style hero
infiltrates the Muslim world of the Turkish-Ottoman Empire in search of
secret plots, deadly spies and the fabled green mantle once worn by the
Prophet Muhammad (PBUH).
When the war
was over Herbert returned to England, at which time the fledgling democracy
of Albania twice offered its throne to this Englishman they had grown to
trust.
Sadly, the man
whom many still revere as the real Greenmantle died at a young age, not in
the saddle or while escaping foreign spies, but as the result of a botched
dental surgery. Towards the end of his life, the Long Rider who had escaped
dozens of dangers became totally blind, whereupon he was told that having
all of his teeth extracted would restore his vision. The resultant dental
surgery resulted in blood poisoning which killed the fabled traveller in
September, 1923, when he was only 43. |
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John Cam Hobhouse
rode with Lord Byron across Albania in 1809. |
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Though
Arthur Hopkinson was born into an ecclesiastical English family in 1894,
that didn’t stop him from riding across the Himalayas in 1947 with some of
the most important news ever heard in Tibet. After being educated at Oxford,
Hopkinson was made a captain during the First World War, whereupon he was
decorated for his exceptional conduct.
Armed with this
combination of intellect and military expertise, Hopkinson entered the
Indian Civil Service. He was quickly made an Assistant Political Agent and
stationed in a number of colourful, and dangerous dangerous, locales
including Chitral. Then in 1926 he set out for the distant town of Gyantse
in Tibet. His job was to act as Assistant Political Officer for Sikkim,
Bhutan and Tibet.
It was at this
time that Hopkinson met and married Eleanor Richardson. Many of the letters
that he wrote to her during his time in Gyantse give a detailed and
colourful account of his time in the Tibet-Sikkim area. He was at the post
in 1947, when the British government asked him to ride to Lhasa and inform
the Dalai Lama of India’s independence. He made that trip, accompanied by
Eleanor, then returned to England in 1948.
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Eleanor Hopkinson was one of the very few Western women to have
travelled extensively in the old Tibet. Her husband, A. J. Hopkinson of the
Indian Civil Service, was the last British Political Officer and Resident in
Sikkim in the Himalayas. In 1947, her 20th year in India, the Hopkinsons
made a month’s tour of the Tibetan administrative centres of Shi-gatse,
Gyantse and Sakya to tell them – at the behest of Whitehall – that the
British were gone and thenceforth they would be dealing with an independent
India.
Eleanor Hopkinson was born in 1905 into a large Quaker family in Newcastle
upon Tyne. She recalled that, one day in 1926, her future father-in-law sent
his son, Arthur, on leave from India, to call on her parents who were known
to have two eligible daughters. On Arthur’s next leave two years later they
were married. In 1928, aged 22, she joined her husband in India, first in
Kathiawar and later in the North West Frontier Province.
She found herself in “part of Kipling’s India”. She recalled: “In winter
tribesmen came down from Afghanistan with their womenfolk and camels, going
as far as Bengal. They were moneylenders who extracted their interest with
‘the big stick’ – literally. The men were tall, burly and much bigger than
the small farmers; if they couldn’t pay, they beat them with a pole 8ft long
as thick as my arm, bound with four brass rings.” With war looming Hopkinson
returned to England, living with her parents in the Lake District and (apart
from two short spells of leave) separated from her husband. At the war’s end
(a fourth child was born on VE day) she rejoined him, by then in Sikkim,
leaving her sister to take charge of her four children.
India had been badly disrupted by the war, but the journey from the railhead
at Siliguri up the Teesta Valley to Gangtok, surrounded by the Himalayan
giants, impressed her. Her husband was supposed to be in charge of the trade
route to Tibet “but that was a bit of a pretence because really it was to
control the high border passes and to check that law and order was kept. The
British Indian Government regarded Tibet as an autonomous buffer between the
great powers of Russia, China and India.”
In Gangtok she found that the residency, supposedly a private house, was
always full of visitors; her husband and his predecessor had been posted
there alone, so they liked plenty of people around. Guidebooks recommended
that Europeans should travel with dinner jackets.
The Hopkinsons’ daily transport was ponies, though Eleanor always feared
that she would fall off. The daily trek on tours of duty was 12 to 14 miles
at a steady pace. When breaking the news about independence the Hopkinsons
went via north Sikkim – where very few Europeans, and no British woman, had
ever travelled – rather than on the regular route over the Natu La pass.
In Tibet they reached Khampha Dzong, a magnificent and still intact
inhabited medieval castle. The Tibetans reacted to the Hopkinsons’ news with
dismay as they were the only outside people they had known. But in some
places there were big parties: “Their barley beer was awfully good,” she
recorded. “One good drink did you no harm, but you hadn’t to indulge.”
On earlier journeys she had had what was then the rare privilege of
travelling to the Kingdom of Bhutan, east of Sikkim, as well as to Gyantse
in Tibet.
She recalled that en route to Yatung “there was a wonderful little temple
with some quite exceptionally beautiful images – the first bit of Buddhism
you came to when dropping off the high passes”. Years later, after the
Chinese had annexed the country, she saw a photograph of it: “The whole
place was a ruin. The Tibetans never thought the Chinese would come – who
still insist they delivered Tibet from the darkness of medievalism. Up to a
point they did, but they destroyed so much. It was brutal. They wiped it
flat.” By the end of their posting, Sikkim was regarded as an outpost on the
fringe of Empire and received no recognition. Hopkinson recalled that
friends in England thought they had been making a fortune and living very
well, “which was far from the case. We were simply doing our duty.” On
September 1, 1948, Arthur Hopkinson handed over his post to his Indian
successor. Hopkinson’s entry in her diary for that day reads like an epitaph
for the British Raj: “Today we are no longer masters of the residency.”
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At first glance one may wonder how qualified were the two young men who set
off from a Texas border town bound for Mexico City in 1931. The author,
Joseph Goodwin was a Yankee with an itchy foot and a taste
for peril. In contrast to this homespun hero was his companion,
Robert Horiguichi, the sophisticated, multi-lingual son of an
imperial Japanese diplomat. To say these two mismatched, would-be equestrian
explorers were unprepared for the deserts, quicksand and brigands they
encountered in the Mexican wilderness would be a mild understatement.
Luckily before leaving the Lone Star state they had procured what they
believed were all the necessities for explorers, including a canteen, an old
pistol, and a typewriter to chronicle their soon-to-be-famous equestrian
escapades. Along with their mustangs, Pistole and Negra, the amateur
adventurers set out to prove that the dangers of the road were as welcome as
the pleasures, something for which they did not have to wait long to
discover. In one particularly harrowing episode, they were surrounded, shot,
and nearly kidnapped by an armed band of Mexican bandits. Through Mexico on
Horseback
is both a stirring tale of high adventure and a look
back at a more innocent time in a now-bygone world. |
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William Holt
- rode through England and Western Europe in 1965. Author of Ride a
White Horse. Holt writes, "Chi va piano va
lontano" ("He who goes slowly goes far.") |
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Countess Helen Hohenau of Germany - Rode from Munich to Rome, where
she was greeted by the Pope, in 1950. |
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It was thanks to a
fateful sea journey to Portugal that John Howard, a wealthy English
merchant, was captured and imprisoned by French corsairs. After his release
from French prison Howard returned to England. Yet instead of resuming his
life of ease, Howard determined to undertake a private inspection of the
existing English prisons. Setting out on horseback, Howard made seven long
rides which totalled an astonishing 80,000 kilometres, all the while
documenting the horrors he discovered. Thanks to Howard’s brave social
campaign, England reformed its prison system. Not content with having
assisted his countrymen, Howard then set out to inspect Russian prisons. He
died of “gaol fever,” a type of typhus, in the Ukraine in 1790. Following
his death, a statue of Howard was erected in his honour in London’s St. Paul
Cathedral. Today the John Howard League carries on the work of this
noteworthy Long Rider. |
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