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The Long Riders' Guild

Historical Long Riders

Franc and Jean Shor - rode across the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan to Gilgit, Pakistan, in 1952.

One of the most unusual Historical Long Riders came from the tiny mountain kingdom of Gahrwal adjacent to Nepal. Giyan Sing was one of these hardy mountaineers who had enlisted to serve in the British army in India. When Lieutenant Percy Etherton asked for a volunteer to accompany him in 1909 on a 4,000 mile ride from Kashmir, north to Gilgit, across the dangerous Pamir mountain range, through Chinese Turkistan and Mongolia, the intrepid Sing accepted the challenge. His decision was made all the more extraordinary considering the fact that Sing had no previous equestrian experience. Nevertheless the small equestrian traveller rode alongside Etherton throughout their lengthy journey. Upon reaching Yarkand, the weary Long Riders were invited to a feast hosted by the local Chinese governor. Though they were thousands of miles from Peking, the governor nevertheless produced a plethora of tasty dishes including pigeon’s eggs preserved in chalk, lotus seeds, stag’s tendons and sea slugs. The ride turned deadly when Sing and Etherton rode into Siberia during the winter of 1910. The cold was simply appalling, with the temperature sinking to 46 degrees below zero, when Etherton suffered from frostbite. When they remarked on the cold, a local Siberian told the equestrian explorers that though the Czar might rule all Russia, it was King Frost who ruled Siberia. Having ridden four thousand miles with Etherton, the young Gahrwali tribesman completed the journey to England by train and ship, reaching London fifteen months after first stepping into the saddle.

Skifter.JPG (63517 bytes) Gorn Skifter - rode from the Arctic Circle, Finland to Haugesund, Norway in 1953.
Skrede.JPG (33807 bytes) Wilfred Skrede was nineteen in 1941 when the Nazis occupied his homeland of Norway. Determined to reach a training camp of the free Norwegian Air Force located in Toronto, Canada, the daring young man set off across Russia, Siberia, China, Turkestan and India before finally reaching his destination in far away North America, more than one year later. After the war Skrede wrote about this amazing journey describing how he made his way along the tracks of Genghis Khan’s hordes, followed the silk caravans from China, crossed the high mountains of Central Asia, and miraculously made his way to freedom. Yet the liberty he sought demanded a high price. Being a Norwegian refugee, he was frequently arrested by various police forces who threatened him with deportation back to his Nazi-occupied homeland, and in communist controlled Sinkiang the young adventurer had his back cracked by a wild truck driver. His most perilous challenge however came when he was forced to ride horseback over the infamous 16,000 foot high Mintaka Pass, a hideous bit of trail known for killing horses and riders alike. Across the Roof of the World is an epic equestrian travel tale laced with unforgettable excitement.

“Medicus” was the pen name adopted by Daniel Denison Slade, an American physician, born in Boston, Massachusetts, 10 May, 1823. After graduating from Harvard in 1844, Slade went abroad for the purpose of higher studies, and on his return in 1852 he settled in practice in Boston.

During the civil war he was appointed one of the inspectors of hospitals under the United States sanitary commission. 

Despite his medical success, Dr. Slade gradually relinquished his medical profession in favor of literary and horticultural pursuits, and in 1870 was chosen professor of applied zoology in Harvard, which chair he held for twelve years.  

In 1884 he was appointed assistant in the Museum of comparative zoology and lecturer on comparative osteology in Harvard.  

Though he is best remembered for his prize winning medical books, Slade also wrote this rare account of equestrian travel. Like his fellow New Englander, Captain John Codman, Dr. Slade was an advocate of the physical benefits of what was then termed equestrianopathy. “No exercise can compare with that of horseback riding,” he wrote. 

His short booklet, “Twelve Days in the Saddle,” recalls how in 1883 Slade and his daughters rode through primeval forests, alongside rushing rivers and ventured into the still unspoiled valleys of Connecticut, Vermont and Massachusetts. Yet in addition to this lovely story, Slade was wise enough to provide would-be equestrian travellers with a list of tips on how to make a successful journey. The “Maxims” provided by the good doctor still hold true today.

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An English immigrant, J. Smeaton Chase (1864-1923) came to California in 1890 where he pursued a career as one of the state’s earliest social workers. Yet he never allowed his career to interfere with the life-long pursuit of his twin passions, equestrian travel and botany. Though Chase made many various horse trips throughout the American West, his book California Coast Trails describes his most famous journey, from Mexico to Oregon along the coast of California in 1910. The amateur scientist doesn’t merely ride along, he treats us to a treasure trove of observations, commenting on subjects as diverse as the architecture of the Spanish Missions, the hospitality of the people, and the beauties of a fabled countryside in the last days of its pristine natural glory. While Chase regales the reader with adventures, such as rescuing his horse from quicksand, the book is far more than a mere account of an equestrian exploration.

Then in 1916 Chase mounted up and rode into the Mojave Desert to undertake the longest equestrian study of its kind in modern history. The book of this journey, California Desert Trails, is one man’s love affair with the Mojave Desert.

Beryl Smeeton - rode across South America in 1938.
Cornelius Smith was no stranger to danger, having already won the Congressional Medal of Honor for gallantry against the Sioux, when the dashing young lieutenant announced he was going to spend his leave attending his sister’s wedding. Only problem was that this happy event was half-way across the American west. Yet Smith had no doubts that his horse, Blue, could carry him the thousand miles from Fort Wingate, Arizona to Fort Sam Houston, Texas. “I had purchased Blue from Lieutenant Bruce Wallace, who had used the animal to run down the Apache Kid in Arizona. Blue was not of proud lineage, just a good-sized horse bred at the Maxwell Ranch in New Mexico. He was a fifteen hand high gelding known to the Mexicans as a “grullo. ”… I have always thought myself fortunate to belong to an organization whose Captain believed in making camp early in the day. To do so, he trotted his horses, perhaps three-quarters the length of any march we ever made. This allowed men and horses to rest comfortably in camp, a rest they could not attain by loafing along the road all day. I patterned my ride after this. Of the thousand miles of my ride to Texas, I trotted Blue for about 700 miles. I did not gallop him one step. I rode into Fort Sam Houston just twenty-eight days and ten hours out of Fort Wingate. The ride had been pleasant all along the way.”
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Edith Somerville and Violet Martin were the two fun-loving, hard-riding, co-writing female cousins who penned a total of fourteen books, including their immortal classic, Some Experiences of an Irish R. M. While readers of that generation would have recognised the names of the co-authors' pseudonyms, “Martin Ross” and “E. Œ. Somerville,” few knew that the books were actually the pen names of these light-hearted Irish Long Riders. Their most famous equestrian work was entitled Beggars on Horseback. This delightful book recalls how the high-spirited young ladies decided to tour North Wales on horseback. Finding suitable horses was their first task: even in 1894 this was no easy matter, especially when they explained why they needed them: “We were conscious of social shrinkage as the work for which we required the ponies was explained; a fortnight’s road work in Wales, with the proviso that the animals would have to carry packs, held a suggestion of bagmen, not to say tinkers.” They were both avid horsewomen, and in due course they hired two ponies who have pride of place in this enchanting tale.
Spotswood.jpg (25228 bytes) Alexander Spotswood - led the first mounted expedition from Virginia into the Allegheny Mountains in 1716.  The cavaliers from this company formed North America's first equestrian corps known as The Knights of the Golden Horseshoe. "After the adventure, and when the party had returned to civilization, Governor Spotswood, bethinking himself that there should be some token of the exploit, had made in London a number of small golden horseshoes, set as pins to be worn in the lace cravats of each of the adventurers."   

Freya Stark - Dame Freya Madeleine Stark was a British travel writer, who was not only one of the first Western women to travel through the Arabian deserts, she also explored Turkey, Nepal and the Pamir mountains on horseback. The intrepid lady Long Rider believed there were two kinds of people in the world, villagers and nomads.

“There can be no happiness if the things we believe in are different from the things we do,” she wrote, before setting out to ride alone across the Turkish plateaux to the distant Tigris River. Along the way she journeyed from Lake Van through desolate mountains, during which time she encountered Turkish governors, mad men, villagers and policemen, all of whom were baffled at her unhurried manner of travel. Never a quitter, the woman known as the “poet of travel,” climbed the notorious Annapurna mountain at the age of 86 and lived to be a hundred.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edward Percy Stebbing - Like many of his English generation, Edward Stebbing was deeply involved, and affected, by the First World War. Though he inspected the Serbian front, his most important war time experience occurred in Russia, which he visited in 1917 between the fall of the Czar and the rise of the Bolsheviks. A keen political observer, Stebbing correctly prophesized that Germany viewed Russia as a potential bread basket and that it was in England’s best interests to protect her ally. “The object is to save the Russians from the Germans, for if we fail now the war will have to be fought out again in the future,” Stebbing wrote. His warning proved to be all too true, as Hitler later invaded Russia so as to seize its vast resources.

Stebbing was no mere political columnist. He spent many years living in India, where he served in Forestry Service. Once again his observational skills were employed, this time to write a book about the insect life of the Indian subcontinent. Upon returning to Great Britain, he became a professor at the University of Edinburgh. During his forty-year career, he led one of the earliest efforts to study the danger of desertification presented by the encroaching Sahara.

Yet it was thanks to Stebbing’s organization and participation in the largest mass equestrian journey in English history which led to him being named as a Historical Long Rider.

While doing research for The Guild’s Horse Travel Handbook, the Guild recovered a rare book entitled Cross Country Riding. Written by Stebbing in 1938, there are less than half a dozen copies of the book now in existence. In addition to sharing the wisdom gained from years of riding in both India and England, the author made the startling announcement that he had been inspired to write his book because of the immense success of “The Long Distance Ride.” A diligent hunt through a great many archives finally located a copy of Stebbing’s article  wherein he described how hundreds of equestrians rode from all points of England so as to gather in a grand ceremony in southern Britain.

Dated August, 1937, the story described how a host of British horse riders set out from eight starting points, bound for a central meeting place at Eastbourne. Not only were the editors of the sponsoring magazine surprised that more than twice as many people as expected decided to ride across Southern England, they also reported that one contestant came from as far away as Norway. Nor was an age a factor, as the oldest rider was 76 and the youngest only 11 years old.

What Long Rider Stebbing’s terrific article reveals is that there are unexpected lessons to be learned when ring riders venture out of doors, be it in 1937 or more than seventy years later. Not only do they develop their courage, more importantly, they realize that riding isn’t merely about detail, it is about individual accomplishment. Regardless of what year the calendar says, equestrians in search of the “centaur moment” are learning that it isn’t “Thou Must” but rather “This Is.”

Even in the Age of Adventure, there were few men to equal Thomas Stevens! He scouted for the famous African explorer, Henry Morton Stanley. Then in 1866 the American reporter proceeded to pedal a penny-farthing bicycle around the world, seeing the sights in Europe, out-racing a mob in Persia, and baffling the Japanese in Yokohama. No sooner had Stevens returned from his four-year bicycle marathon than he was hired by a New York newspaper to go to Russia on a special assignment. Only this time Stevens was ordered to travel through the heart of the Czar’s vast domain on horseback! Though the intrepid traveler had already lived through dozens of dangers, Russia presented new challenges. Mounted on his faithful horse, Texas, Stevens crossed the Steppes in search of adventure. Cantering across the pages of Through Russia on a Mustang is a cast of nineteenth century Russian misfits, peasants, aristocrats—and even famed Cossack Long Rider Dmitry Peshkov. This exciting equestrian tale is illustrated with photographs taken by Stevens during his historic trip.
Stirling.JPG (164627 bytes) A. W. Stirling FRGS - explored North Queensland, Australia, on horseback in 1882.
Few equestrian travellers had a more politically radical life than did the American, Anna Louise Strong. Having been raised in Seattle in the early 1900s where she was strongly influenced by the labor riots and social unrest of that time, Strong turned her back on her otherwise normal suburban roots and fled overseas. Denouncing capitalism, she began a series of state-sponsored journeys deep into the secretive heart of the recently formed Soviet Union. Her resulting books described a worker’s paradise and invariably praised the communist experiment. Dictator Joseph Stalin was so pleased with this American convert, he encouraged her to visit the far-flung corners of the new Red Empire. The Road to the Grey Pamir is the story of how Strong accompanied a group of Soviet geologists as they rode into the seldom-seen Pamir mountains of faraway Tadjikistan. Mounted on her horse, American Girl, the political renegade turned equestrian explorer soon discovered more adventure than she anticipated.

John Mcdouall Stuart was one of the most important explorers and equestrian travellers in Australian history. A Scotsman with a military background, he arrived in Australia in 1839. After having explored around Port Lincoln and the Flinders Range in the 1840s and 50s, Stuart led his first expedition into Central Australia in search of legendary inland sea called Windjulpin. Stuart departed on horseback in 1858, accompanied by an Aboriginal guide and a man named George Foster. The hardy travellers made their way into barren country, relying on Stuart’s compass and navigational skills to keep them alive. At one point hostile Warramnuga Aboriginals attacked their horses with boomerangs and set fire to the grass around their camp. Though they only carried rations for four weeks, Stuart and his men rode for more than two months, covering more than 2,000 kilometres before finally being forced to turn back. Still undaunted, Stuart returned to the saddle in 1860 by riding to the centre of the Australian continent. He followed that with an expedition in 1862 when he reached the northern coast of the continent. However, the toil taken by the difficult and dangerous journeys undermined his health. He retired to his sister’s home in London and died in 1866.

Swift.jpg (4423 bytes) Jonathan Swift - rode extensively in Ireland in the early 1700s, journeying from Cavan to Carbery.  The solitude and interaction with his horse laid the foundation for his famous book, Gulliver's Travels and was the inspiration for the talking horses in the Land of the Houyhnhnms.  
Sykes.JPG (19560 bytes) At a time when polite Victorian society severely curtailed a woman’s activities, famous female adventurer Ella Sykes risked her life on a daily basis. Religious fanatics failed to frighten her. Forsaken, hostile deserts never slowed her horse-bound progress. Instead Ella Sykes rode side-saddle 2,000 miles across Persia, a country few European woman had ever visited. Mind you, she travelled in style, accompanied by her Swiss maid and 50 camels loaded with china, crystal, linens and fine wine.
In her day Sykes was considered one of the bravest women alive. Today her remarkable story, replete with rajas and rogues, camels and caravans, is all but forgotten.
Illustrated with photographs taken by Sykes, Through Persia on a Side-Saddle is a rare glimpse into a lost and romantic portion of the nineteenth century world! 

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